A trip to Montréal could be a faster route to Paris if it weren’t for it’s own personal and famous delicacies.
Sure, there are so many restaurants, so many of which are indeed French, however, a visit would not be complete without a trip to Schwartz’s or St. Viateur.
If you’re lucky enough to experience a St. Viateur bagel hot from their wood burning oven, you’ll be certain to leave with at least a dozen and compelled to repack your suitcase for more. Unlike their doughy, over-puffed counter parts, these bagels are now a distinctive Montréal establishment. Founded in 1957, they have been confusing copy-cats seeking out the recipe for decades. “It’s in the oven.” Says, Vince of St.Viateur. As it’s not just the recipe that holds the secret to these chewy and flavourful masterpieces. Since most cities aren’t permitted wood burning ovens, which produce the optimal conditions and heat to bake the bagels.
Thankfully Montréal is a very walkable city – even in the winter. Although cold and particularly snowy during my last visit, there were people out enjoying the day. It really is the best way to get around and work off that extra bagel or your last order of poutine.
Poutine is common street food and even though it’s made it into fast food outlets, it’s still the mom and pop’s that make it the best. Years ago, while living in the city, I had a chef friend who obviously shared my love of the food experience. In addition to the best French restos, he had me lined up for a poutine taste test. Poutine is a dish of crisp, straight cut French fries, gooingly topped with cheese curds and a “brown sauce”. This gravy and the cheese somehow have a way of touching and melting over every über fattening bite. Served up with a hot dog avec tout; onions, relish, sauerkraut and a sprinkling of cayenne (don’t balk, it’s surprisingly delicious). With that you may think that a plate of poutine would be the same as the next, but it really isn’t so. The one spot you may second guess entering from the street view is often the best, including the case of where we were. Don’t let the orange counter and the faded overhead menu photos fool you. Of course, now a days I might opt for some of Montréal’s French uppity restaurants versions that offer fois gras or an ox tail gravy on their Belgian style frites. But once in a while, during a visit this sit down street food is simply irresistible.
I know, I know, if you see one more cupcake shop you may just want to toss your sprinkles but while out on my food jaunt, I just couldn’t help but notice the retro pink shop bustling with customers. Perhaps it was the unforgiving snow or the fact that the store looked as if it were decorated by Barbie herself, I couldn’t not enter. So sweetly named, Petits Gâteaux is only one of the few popular cupcake joints in the city.
Inside, I was greeted by friendly faces and long glass counters filled with the tiniest of cupcakes decked out with the likes of banana fudge, chocolate mocha and white chocolate raspberry. Even with a flight out the next day, I couldn’t resist these tea party cakes. Living up to their names of small cakes, they were just about that.
I learned my lesson of temptation then still moved along to smoked meat.
All of this during a crazy snowstorm, we were blasted and whitened as the snowballs fell from the sky. Our last stop was Schwartz’s Deli. Between the small hike of two blocks, our once dark jackets were lightened. Quickly saturated by the steam of some of the most known smells in Montréal, the snow that covered out jackets melted faster than the Schwartz’s Saturday wait.
A Montréal landmark since 1928, it’s the spot for locals, tourist and celebrities alike, the line up is deservedly out the door on the best of days. …And why not? Schwartz’s is well known for it’s spices and slow preparation, helping to give New York City a run for not only bagels but the perfect deli sandwich. It’s a thing of pride for the folks at Schwartz’s. One of the best damn sandwiches you will ever have. Piled a mile high and the chance to see Angelina Jolie with mustard on her chin, who could possibly pass that up while in town?
Anything to declare? I was asked as I entered customs for my quick flight home.
“Schwartz’s and bagels.” was my reply.
And in the most relaxed customs agent response, “Haha. Bien sur, allons y. Just next time remember the Tourtiere and the sugar pie.”
For a few more shots of the trip check out my flickr page.
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